We have lots of climbing photos, and several videos, but mostly of routes grade F7 and upwards. But most of our guests enjoy climbing 5b-6b, so it was great to be able to video Frank leading “Koga” 5c at the Port of Santa Maria, in the east coast of Sardinia. This video is much more typical of what our guests do than world pull-up champion Jan climbing a 7c-8a or a very focussed Peter on a 7b. This relaxed climbing spot is right by the sea, this day there were no waves, the sea was completely clear and you could see the seabed and fish perfectly. Anne, Ada and Francesco came to see us in their kayaks – they had already been to kayaking in the morning, but decided that sea conditions were so good that they wanted to go again in the afternoon. Anke described the setting as “traumhaft”, “heavenly”, and the video shows why. This was our first video in German, but needs no subtitles . We have substantially updated our page in German on climbing in Sardinia and Ogliastra and have used this video to illustrate how the sort of support we give to climbing guests at The Lemon House. Over the next month we will substantially update the climbing pages on our UK and Italian websites as well.

When he wasn’t shooting the cover of the World Climbing Calendar 2013

in his local Blue Mountains, Australia, John Smoothy spent a month in Sardinia climbing with Gemma, and we enjoyed their company and dry Australian humour when they stayed with us at The Lemon House. Vet Gemma teased Peter that his cut legs licked in Jan 2011 by a shepherd’s dogs could still have the rabies virus incubating in them. Peter will be enternally grateful to John for belaying him as he finally RP’ed after 2 years/16 separate days’ effort “Corazon Maldido” 7c/+ at Genna Croce, Urzulei, almost “a legend in his own lunchtime”, for this effort, as they say in Australia. .

We named a recent route at Dinopark “Fruitbat Smoothy” to remember John and Gemma and their generous contribution to the Lemon House’s Bolt Fund.

The new “Dinopark” sector on the east coast of Sardinia is only 30 minutes door-to-door from the The Lemon House: 15 minutes by car to Pedra Longa then 15 minutes’ walk. If you want to climb steeply overhanging tufas 7a – 7c+ this ist he place for you! Check out Tomas and Jan in the great video on the left! Topos here. Ideal in autumn, winter, spring.

This trailer of Pietro Porro’s video HYKNUSA (Sardinia’s ancient name) makes you long to climb the multipitch routes on Sardinia’s east coast! Fortunately in this wild and enchanting area there aren’t only MP routes waiting for their first repeat from James Pearson and Caroline Ciavaldini, but also easier routes at Punta Giradili, Oronnoro, Gorroppu and on the Aguglia of Goloritzè. Peter has lots of new topos and information (the 4th edition of Pietra di Luna was published in 2002…) on local MP routes. He’s always ready to give advice to guests at The Lemon House. See our web site and Peter’s article on UKClimbing about MP routes in Sardinia.