Important safety warning! The UIAA has updated its corrosion notice for anchors in marine locations after it was found that bolts and hangers made of commonly-used grades of stainless steel on crags near the sea could be weakened by corrosion much faster than people had previously thought, and that bolts that looked sound from a distance could in fact fail at much less than their rated load. These cases have been found in the tropical locations such as the Caribbean, Indonesia, Thailand (see report in Italian on Planetmountain) and also Kalymnos, the Calanques and Sardinia. The worst corrosion environment, worse even than if the bolt was splashed by the sea, is when a salt crust builds up on the bolt and doesn’t get washed off, since this gives the highest concentration of Cl- ions which then form hydrochloric acid. This can happen when the bolt is in a cave, for instance. Warnings of this risk and the suggestions listed below to continue to climb safely had been published on www.sardiniaclimb.com 27/5/2012, www.pietradiluna.com face book 22/5/2012, and Peter’s post on UKClimbing 3/6/2012.
It’s recommended to never rely on only one bolt of a “French stance” with two offset eye bolts to lower off from (Peter does see people doing this…), you should clip into both bolts while you thread the rope through both bolts before lowering off and this manoeuvre should be performer by the leader not the second. We have joined the two bolts of French stances and added a “maillon rapide” for lowering-off at the popular sea-side crag of Porto di Santa Maria Navarrese 3 km from The Lemon House with a sling, as a precaution against people only clipping into one bolt. The current Pietra di Luna guide says, “Don’t join the bolts with a sling” and so we have added a label to the sling
Bitte nicht Seilschlinge und Maillon zum Abseilen entfernen, für deine Sicherheit!
Sling and lower-off maillon for your safety, don’t remove.
Cordone e maillon di calata per la vostra sicurezza, non portare via!
Info: www.peteranne.it ► blog