Pietra di Luna single pitch sport climbing
The 5th edition of Maurizio Oviglia’s beautiful guidebook Pietra di Luna, see left, which Peter translated from Italian to English, was published in October 2011 and is on sale at The Lemon House for €50. Just reading this makes you impatient to start climbing in Sardinia! This 600-page guide covers 3600 Sardinian SINGLE PITCH sport climbs (NOT multi pitch routes, there is a specific guide for these, except for 3 routes on the Aguglia di Goloritzè and the odd other MP route, no bouldering either). You can order it from Cordee and Climb Europe in English £49,95. ISBN 978-888966118-5. Main developments since the publication of Pietra di Luna up to the end of 2012 are described in this Climbing in Sardinia – Updates 2012 article written by Peter. A free update guide for Ulassai was publshed in October 2014. 220 routes compared to 121 in Pietra di Luna, see photo right.
If you just want to climb single-pitch sports routes in Ogliastra, there’s the cartoguida (map guide) with 570 single-pitch routes in Ogliastra published in March 2008, see cover right. This contains most of the routes in the 2011 Pietra di Luna. You can order it (ISBN 978 888966110 9) from Cordee for £17,95 or you can buy it at The Lemon House for €14. For our guests, we add details of new routes and give you a couple of new topos, such as for Su Telargiu Oro.
Pietra di Luna trad and multi pitch
In December 2014 the second volume of the latest edition of Maurizio Oviglia’s climbing guide book “Pietra di Luna” covering 1400 modern multipitch and trad routes was piblished. The areas with some of the most famous MP routes in Sardinia – Baunei and Urzulei – are literally on our doorstep and of the 63 areas in the guide, over half of these areas are accessible from The Lemon House in 90 minutes’ drive or less: 16 – Ussassai (Ogliastra); 17 – Punta Giogadorgiu (Ogliastra); 18 – Villagrande (Ogliastra); Baunei 19 – Pedra Longa; 20 – Punta Argennas; 21 – Punta Giradili; 22 – Amor de mi vida; 23 – Monte Ginnircu; 24 – Monte Santu; 25 – Abissi; 26 – Cala Goloritzè; 27 – Oronnoro; 28 – Punta Plumare; 29 – Codula Sisine; 30 – Monte Andau; Urzulei 31 – Donneneittu; 32 – S’Orcu; 33 – Gorroppeddu; 34 – Serra Oseli; 35 – Punta Cocuttos; 36 – Sa Foradada; 37 – Punta s’Iscopargiu; 38 – Monte Oddeu (Dorgali); 39 – Surtana (Dorgali); 40 – Monte Gutturgios (Oliena); 41 – Badde Pentumas (Oliena); 42 – Monte Uddè (Oliena); 43 – Punta Cusidore (Oliena); 44 – Bruncu Nieddu (Oliena); 45 – Jacu Ruju (Oliena); 46 – Ortu Camminu (Oliena); 47 – Punta Carabidda (Oliena); 48 – La Poltrona (Cala Gonone);49 – Biddiriscottai (Cala Gonone); 50 – Margheddie (Cala Gonone). Available at the Lemon House, €48, or buy it from Cordee in the UK.
Peter has developed many of the boulder problems at Serra Oseli. You can download a topo from the Bloccobirra web site, and an update to this here. The Bloccobirra site also has topos for other bouldering areas.
Deep Water Soloing DWS
As well as the bouldering, there are some topos available for the Deep Water Soloing, such as the one on the left for Cala ‘e Luas. We are keen to develop more DWS, especially in autumn when the water is still warm and falling in does not seem to be a hardship. Just remember to bring some old shoes….