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Peter & Anne Holidays |
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Cycling (road and mountain bike), walking and climbing in Ogliastra, Sardinia |
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Sardinia rock climbing |
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The Lemon House via Dante 19 08040 Lotzorai (OG) Italy Tel/Fax: +39 0782 669 507 Mobile (Anne): +39 339 714 6496 Mobile (Peter): +39 335 648 9826 E-mail: peteranne@peteranne.it
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Crags Database: Follow this link to download driving times to Ogliastra crags from Peter and Anne’s house, useful hints on how to find them (beyond what’s written in Pietra di Luna and elsewhere on the site) and other useful comments to plan your climbing. This was prepared before the map guide was published.
Climbs Database: Follow this link to download details of 40 Ogliastra climbs, local topo/Pietra di Luna grades French 4c to 6b+, with Peter’s suggested alternative grades, and his comments from when he climbed the routes in 2006. This information demonstrates that there are plenty of easy-mid grade climbs and helps you choose which routes to go for |
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Above L: Mediterraneo (S2, 7a+ max/6b obl 230m) Punta Giradili. Robert arrives at 6th stance with Pedra Longa in the background Above R: Pat on the beautiful boulders at Serra Oseli, 45’ from our house. See The Lemon House’s YouTube videos Left: DWS at Cala ‘e Luas, 45’ from The Lemon House. Access by foot. Anna on 6a arete in October
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Above: bouldering circuit at The Lemon House. In the unlikely event it rains, you can psyche up watching our climbing DVDs and then do a few circuits on the bouldering wall. |
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Above: Isola del Tesoro, Jerzu. A magical place to climb |
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Above: Peter describes working The Prestige 7b+, Su Telargiu Oro, July 2010 on this video Below: Aguglia di Goloritzè. The easiest route, Easy Gymnopedie, climbs the R arete at F6c (5c obbl.)
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Ogliastra is a climber’s paradise. As a couple of visiting climbers declared, “This area has all the potential to be another Siurana,” a referral to one of Spain’s top areas (some say the best). Note, though, with crags from sea level to 1100m and of all orientations, in Ogliastra you can climb all year round. Within 60-90 minutes’ drive of The Lemon House , with most between 15 and 45’ away, you find 700 single pitch and 60+ multipitch routes with a wide variety of year-round climbing in beautiful settings, as well as bouldering and DWS. See full detail here or the climbing page on the Provincia dell’Ogliastra’s site. There are many new sectors (see photos) which have recently been bolted, and since 2007 we are actively developing by bolting a crag we’ve called “The Lemon House”, helped initially by our friend and guru of Sardinian climbing Maurizio Oviglia, some easier routes (grade 4-6a) near to The Lemon House, and the Su Telargiu Oro cave, great for summer, which we started developing in 2008, and which, as of July 2010, has 34 routes, 28 from 6a to 8b+/c and 8 still to be freed. See our blog for progress on developments, and our photo album. We even have a granite crag with 12 routes only 10’ walk from the house! Other areas in Sardinia are better known, such as Cala Gonone, which is 90 minutes drive from our house but it is sometimes busy, a bit polished and hot in summer, as well as Domusnovas and Isili which are not by the sea. But here in Ogliastra you often you have the crag to yourselves and by choosing the right altitude and crag orientation you can climb all year round like we do! The main areas are: · Baunei crags—only 10 minutes from our accommodation! · 200 single pitch sport climbs on fantastic limestone, with 20 4’s and 5’s through to French 8b+/c overhanging testpieces at Monte Scoine, Villaggio Gallico, Creuza de Ma , Campo dei Miracoli, Braccio di Ferro, The Lemon House, Su Telargiu Oro and Santa Maria Navarrese, a small crag right by the port with lots of easier climbs. 10 minutes’ drive from our accommodation . See the descriptions of how to find the Baunei crags and photos. · Long (6+ pitches, 140-400m) harder (6c obligatory and harder) routes on the Aguglia pinnacle at Cala Goloritzè (the most popular is Easy Gymnopedie F6c, F5c obbl, see photo on the right), Punta Argennas, Punta Giradili and Monte Ginnirco. · Jerzu & Ulassai Two crags (Castello and Isola del Tesoro) facing west and one (Palazzo d’Inverno) facing east at 450m altitude, with over 200 one-pitch sports routes mostly from 6a upwards with steep, fingery and technical climbing on superb rock at Jerzu. 45 minutes’ drive from our accommodation . At Ulassai the Cascate di Lecorci has similar standard climbs, with the very popular ‘Canyon’ (gorge) offering quite a few easy routes (French 5b and c) through to several 8a/8a+’s. · Quirra A sun-trap in winter overlooking the river valley, an hour or so from the house. From 4c to 8c, slabs to OHs. Too hot in summer but with full sun and out of the wind, a great location in winter. Details of these climbs can be found in the following two guidebooks: · For single-pitch sports routes, the most up-to-date guide is the cartoguida (map guide) with 570 single-pitch routes in Ogliastra published in March 2008. You can order it (ISBN 978 888966110 9) from Cordee or Klettern or Fabula Editore www.fabulaeditore.it or you can buy it at The Lemon House. Retail price €14. · Maurizio Oviglia’s beautiful guidebook Pietra di Luna, now in its 4th edition (Oct 2002). Photos here. Great colour photos; you can order it from Cordee or Klettern or Fabula and we also have copies for sale. €30 and well worth it. Just reading this makes you impatient to start climbing in Sardinia! This is the most extensive guidebook covering all Sardinian sports climbing and bouldering. We have been helped Maurizio with route checking and photos for the new 5th edition of Pietra di Luna on which (July 2010) work is progressing. The new edition will contain almost all the island’s single-pitch routes, with 120 crags and 3600 climbs, 3300 of which have been personally checked by the author Maurizio Oviglia who has bolted a huge number of the island’s climbs. Peter is doing the translation into English. Most people come to climb single-pitch sports climbs in Sardinia. The multi-pitch routes, though, are another world, frequently taking you into beautiful and remote settings. For details, see the June 2008 Planetfear article. Peter has diligently analysed all possible information sources to build up a “ticklist” of multipitch routes which he is gradually working through, and has a big fat folder of information and topos…tell him what max and “obligatory” grade you are after and his table will spit out a list of routes for you to do, by season! There are trad routes as well as bolted routes. With the walk in and out, and the “Alpine” rock climbing and abseil descents, these are long, satisfying days out you won’t easily forget. We can help you with information about newer, multi-pitch routes not covered by the 2002 edition of Pietra di Luna as well as crags not covered by the cartoguida, such as Serra Oseli and Genna Croce, two recently developed high crags (800-1000m amsl) which offer cool breezy climbing in the height of summer, 30 km from The Lemon House. Walls and slabs from easy grade 6 to 8a; steep climbs in the Yin grotto grades hard 7 and 8. Photos here. Bouldering: Near The Lemon House in Lotzorai there are many granite boulders which Peter explored in 2008, producing a little guide for our guests’ use. There are also some good boulders are just near our apartment in Porto Frailis. The best bouldering, though, is 45 minutes’ drive away, on the superb limestone boulders at Serra Oseli. See photos here or The Lemon House’s videos. If you are looking for a climbing partner or just someone to show you round, Peter is always glad to help out! We can help you supplement Pietra di Luna and the cartoguida with other topos, information from magazines , Italian web sites and from local climbers both on the climbs and how to find the crags. For climbers who want to spend a week at The Lemon House then a week at Cala Gonone, we can organise rental of a friend’s apartment there. You leave here with the keys, and then at the end of the week we drive the 1 hour 15 minutes to Cala Gonone to pick up the keys and maybe do some climbing together. See our Glossary for a useful set of terms you may need if you meet some Italian climbers and want to chat. |
